julia carolyn: November 2009

Abstract Art
Abstract art indicates a departure from reality in depiction of imagery in art. It is based on geometric shapes, bold primary colors and optical prints. Yves Saint Laurent used Dutch artist Piet Mondrian’s abstract grid paintings to create a series of simple shift dresses that have become icons of 1960s style. They were immediately copied in man-made fabrics such as Bri-nylon. Please see both dresses below.

Surrealism
The appeal of Surrealism to the fashion industry was in the use of ordinary everyday objects and landscapes that transferred easily to fabric printing, jewelry, and hats. When I think of surrealism, the Parisian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli immediately pops into my head. She collaborated with many surrealist artists including Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, and Alberto Giacometti. She was the first to use shoulder pads, hot pink, and was most known for her surrealist designs in the 1930’s. The best were her hats that resembled a giant shoe, a lamb chop, and both were worn by Daisy Fellowes. Please see her shoe hat below.

Pop Art
Pop Art is an art movement of the 20th Century which is characterized by themes and techniques drawn from popular mass culture. A good example of pop art is Andy Warhol. Diane von Furstenberg designed a resort-collection inspired by Andy Worhol for her 2008 collection. The pieces, that include bikinis, caftans, and one-piece suits, all have Warhols iconic prints on them. These images are glamorous and perfect for the beach. Interestingly enough during the Studio 54 times, Diane actually posed for Andy’s portraits.

Romanticism
Romantic fashion introduced unnatural waistlines at the rib cage and reintroduced the ballooning, Gothic like “leg of mutton” sleeves. This style is feminine and fitted to the silhouette. Alexander McQueen’s collections are known for both the emotional power and raw energy of his shows, as well as his modern romantic nature of his clothes. McQueen has a very emotional and passionate viewpoint and is very influence by the arts. Please see below examples of the balloon skirt and excellent tailoring.

Byzantine Era
The Byzantine era was a strong influence to Nicole Miller’s Fall in 2006. Through her prints, it was clear that she had travelled back in time to the Byzantine era for inspiration. Byzantine art is known for its pixilated quality of the mosaics created to ornate churches and palaces. These fragmented surfaces were very evident in Miller’s prints. The prints were paired with shades of olives, wine, teal, brown and green. She also included Byzantine influence necklaces and cuffs, distressed double-buckle leather belts, and leather gloves.

Renaissance
John Galliano’s Dior based his Couture Spring 2009 collection on the work of Flemish painters. Flemish art reached its peak in the 17th Century and the paintings included religious scene and portraits. The dresses had a late Gothic, early Renaissance influence by the color contrast and palette of the dresses. The Dior collection is remarkable by its use of lines to enhance each and every element. You can see similarities from the Couture collection to the textures and lines of the works of Jan van Eyck, Hans Memling, and Hugo van der Goes.

Handbags have played an essential part in fashion history ever since people have had something precious to carry around with them. The very first mention in written literature about handbags comes from the 14^th century, even though Egyptian heieroglyphics show pouches carried around the waist. In the later 14th century, bags were attached to girdles, which were fastened to the waist. These pouches were known as “chaneries”, and were also used for gaming. Embroidery and jewels adorned these articles and were used to show status. The more elaborate and intricate the bag, the wealthier the individual was. The most significant bag during this century was known as the Seal Bag. Please see example below of a girdle bag during this era.

During the 16^th and 17^th century, women began to wear their purses or pouches under their skirts and men wore pockets known as “bagges”. Travelers used more practical handbags made of leather with a drawstring to fasten the top or large cloth bags which were carried diagonally across the body. “Swete Bagges” were also popular during this era due to the lack of personal hygiene. These bags were filled with spices, lavender, of perfume which were stored under the dress as well. With the rise of embroidery, by the end of the 17^th century handbags were becoming more complex in shape and included more intricate stitching and detailing. During the 18^th century, neo-classical clothing became popular and women started to wear different bags for each occasion. These bags were known as “reticules or indispensables”. The photo below is of two handbags made in the late 18^th century. These are made out of silk and fine cloth, with a leather handle and sterling silver zipper and clasps. The inside is lined with velvet and the outside is hand stitched with flowers.

The term “handbag” finally came into play in the early 19^th century, due to the opening of the railway lines in Great Britain. The first handbag actually referred to hand held luggage. This was also the rise of complicated fasteners, internal compartments, and the addition of a lock. Below is a photo of a vintage Louis Vuitton luggage made in the late 1890s/early 1900s. Although bulky and not as glamorous, it was the start to Vuittons’s empire.From this point on, there was a significant correlation between the type of dress and the use and function of the handbag itself. After WWI, the “pouchette” was invented which was a type of handle-less clutch. Puchettes were colorful and beautifully decorated. The best part about them was that they were perfect for the women’s active lifestyles. The photo below is a French hand made pouchette made in France. Its intricate needlework consists of tiny ivory seeds accentuated with a Beauvais stitch. The pattern is of a floral theme with a paisley design.

Due to WWII in the 1940s there was a shortage of traditional handbag materials such as leather and metal and manufacturer turned to plastic and wood as alternatives. By the 1950s handbag designers emerged and from then on handbags have been a staple in fashion. Below is a photo of a women holding a Hermes handbag in the 1950s. This handbag gives the perfect touch of elegance to complete the women’s sophisticated ensemble.

Chanel reissued the Maxi Jumbo flap bag in the 1980s. This is a 13” with a double CC clasp closure on the front. The long shoulder straps has leather interwoven between the chain links. The back side of the bag has large slip pocket.

Today the boundaries of handbag makers are virtually non-existent due to the increases in technology as well as the availability of materials. Handbags are available in every price-range and usually the most pristine designers often end up having fakes modeled after their bags. I know I love all my handbags, both small and large and they each have their own story to tell. Whether it’s a big pink Prada shoulder bag or my petite Louis coin purse, they all meet their need and expectations. Some of the most exclusive and wanted handbags today are below: