Monday, November 23, 2009

Historical Artistic Styles

Abstract Art
Abstract art indicates a departure from reality in depiction of imagery in art. It is based on geometric shapes, bold primary colors and optical prints. Yves Saint Laurent used Dutch artist Piet Mondrian’s abstract grid paintings to create a series of simple shift dresses that have become icons of 1960s style. They were immediately copied in man-made fabrics such as Bri-nylon. Please see both dresses below.


Surrealism
The appeal of Surrealism to the fashion industry was in the use of ordinary everyday objects and landscapes that transferred easily to fabric printing, jewelry, and hats. When I think of surrealism, the Parisian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli immediately pops into my head. She collaborated with many surrealist artists including Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, and Alberto Giacometti. She was the first to use shoulder pads, hot pink, and was most known for her surrealist designs in the 1930’s. The best were her hats that resembled a giant shoe, a lamb chop, and both were worn by Daisy Fellowes. Please see her shoe hat below.

Pop Art
Pop Art is an art movement of the 20th Century which is characterized by themes and techniques drawn from popular mass culture. A good example of pop art is Andy Warhol. Diane von Furstenberg designed a resort-collection inspired by Andy Worhol for her 2008 collection. The pieces, that include bikinis, caftans, and one-piece suits, all have Warhols iconic prints on them. These images are glamorous and perfect for the beach. Interestingly enough during the Studio 54 times, Diane actually posed for Andy’s portraits.


Romanticism
Romantic fashion introduced unnatural waistlines at the rib cage and reintroduced the ballooning, Gothic like “leg of mutton” sleeves. This style is feminine and fitted to the silhouette. Alexander McQueen’s collections are known for both the emotional power and raw energy of his shows, as well as his modern romantic nature of his clothes. McQueen has a very emotional and passionate viewpoint and is very influence by the arts. Please see below examples of the balloon skirt and excellent tailoring.


Byzantine Era
The Byzantine era was a strong influence to Nicole Miller’s Fall in 2006. Through her prints, it was clear that she had travelled back in time to the Byzantine era for inspiration. Byzantine art is known for its pixilated quality of the mosaics created to ornate churches and palaces. These fragmented surfaces were very evident in Miller’s prints. The prints were paired with shades of olives, wine, teal, brown and green. She also included Byzantine influence necklaces and cuffs, distressed double-buckle leather belts, and leather gloves.

Renaissance
John Galliano’s Dior based his Couture Spring 2009 collection on the work of Flemish painters. Flemish art reached its peak in the 17th Century and the paintings included religious scene and portraits. The dresses had a late Gothic, early Renaissance influence by the color contrast and palette of the dresses. The Dior collection is remarkable by its use of lines to enhance each and every element. You can see similarities from the Couture collection to the textures and lines of the works of Jan van Eyck, Hans Memling, and Hugo van der Goes.

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